Nothing like a 19.5 hour train journey to set you right....

5 September

After spending a few days wandering around Chiang Rai, it was time to head back to Chiang Mai.  I hopped on the 10.30am bus which arrived at 2.30pm.  Unfortunately, I had to go back to my hostel to pick up my train ticket.  The owner, Kai, had just told me to "get a taxi".  What I don't think he realises is that it is almost impossible to get a taxi for one person.  Instead, I hopped into one which was vaguely going in my direction and walked the rest.  With a huge bag, it was extremely unpleasant.  

After a rest at the hostel, I took another cab to the train station, picked up some Pad Thai for dinner and  got on the train.  As this was my second journey, I considered myself a pro.  I knew the routine and where things were.  For the most part of the journey, I chatted to the Thai guy who would be sleeping in the bunk above me, until it was time for bed.  Unlike last time, I didn't fancy the 'boogie carriage', just simply my bed and my book.

6/7 September

The train was due to arrive into Bangkok at 6.50am.  I woke up about 6am expecting to be hurried along so that they could put the beds away.  Something was up.  From speaking to the other passengers around me, it was clear that there had been an incident in the middle of the night meaning that we were now severely delayed.  What had meant to be a 12 hour journey, turned into 19.5 hours!  The train pulled into Bangkok at 12.30pm.  I wandered over to the MRT and took the metro to the airport.  The only saving grace for this trip was the fact that I didn't have to sit in the airport for hours on end.  After picking up a sandwich (ok a subway!) and dropping off my bag (all 23kgs of it, which I'm still convinced is wrong), I headed for the departure lounge.  

The flight itself was good.  The food was horrid but I met a French guy sitting next to me, so that kept me entertained for most of the way.  He had been living in Perth for the last few months and couldn't speak more highly of it.  Once we'd landed and collected bags, I went in search of a cab.  As I approached the main doors, two well-dressed ladies approached me asking where I was going.  They then directed me to a bus stand and pointed to 3 mini buses which were taking travellers into Ao Nang - perfect!  The journey was short and the next thing I knew, the bus abruptly stopped and the driver shouted at me to get off.  Then I saw the sign for my hostel.  It was only 500m or so but with a heavy bag, this felt like miles.  Luckily, a lady from one of the nearby tour companies, took me to my hostel on the back of her bike.  

The hostel itself was really nice.  Very clean and very comfortable.  It could do with lockers but everyone seemed a friendly bunch.  I was sharing with 2 brothers from Perth and a guy from Singapore.  I popped my head into the communal area but everyone was engrossed in a drinking game, that I didn't want to disturb them.  Eventually, one of the Perth brothers, Luke, invited me to join in.  We hung out in the common area for hours, dancing to Bhangra.  It was a great night.  Tomorrow, it's time to head for the island of Railay.  I have high expectations for this place, so I hope it comes up to scratch...

Chiang Rai - a strange white temple and not much else!

1/2 September

We returned to Chaing Mai for 2 nights and normal service resumed.  On the Sunday, we headed to the night market and wow what a night market it was!  I assumed it would be one or 2 stalls but it was quite the contrary.  Streets were blocked off and the rows of stalls went on for miles around.  I ended up buying a painting of an elephant and yet more Christmas presents.  We also picked up some treats along the way including; miniature ice cream cones and a steamed sweet bun which looked like a dog...only in Asia!

3 September

Robat and I took the bus to Chiang Rai, although he wasn't feeling very well.  I think the travelling and trek he'd done the previous day had taken it out of him.  When we arrived in Chiang Rai, we were dropped off for lunch just outside the main town, next to the famous white temple.  It's a bit of an odd building and unlike most temples, it's decorated entirely in white.  You enter the temple over a bridge which has a sea of skulls and bones underneath.  Guarding each side of the bridge are two silver guards.  The temple inside is decorated in futuristic murals.  I even spotted superman!  Like I said, very odd...

The town itself is very quiet with not much going on!  In the evening, there is a night bazaar with lots of food stalls.  Mostly traditional Thai or Asian food.  Not a KFC in sight!  Other than that, there isn't much to do here, so I took the opportunity to do some writing...

Adventures in Pai - hot springs and a different kind of Thai massage...

29 August

Today, Robat and I travelled up to Pai.  We were collected at 10.30am but ended up sitting in the back of a red truck for an hour waiting for a group of Chinese kids to get their things together.  Thai people are well renowned for keeping calm.  They never get angry, except on this occasion.  As the clock approached midday, the driver got increasingly agitated, particularly when he realised they'd been getting a massage!  He put his foot down and luckily we made the bus.  After some mixed signals, we boarded the mini bus.  The road up to Pai is steep and very windy but its a great drive, perfect for a motorbike.  However, I wouldn't suggest travelling by coach as you need to be able to see the road at all times.  

Pai itself is very small so extremely easy to navigate.  Robat and I stayed in a small bungalow in the centre of the town.  In the evening, we wandered around the night market and sampled a local dish, Khao Soi - best Thai dish yet!

30 August

Robat and I decided to explore the local area with just a simple map as our trusty friend, Lonely Planet, had very limited information to base our tour on.  We rented a bike and rode up to the waterfall, which was much nicer than the one I'd visited in Kanchanaburi.  Unfortunately for me, I hadn't managed to change into my bikini so i could only watch from afar.  We then went up to Pai Canyon which had beautiful views of across the valley.  After we'd taken a few snaps, we spotted a girl in what looked like a short wedding dress.  Considering how far we'd just walked, I couldn't believe what she was wearing.  Instead of just staring, Robat went to ask why...  Apparently, this was not only their one year anniversary but also their honeymoon, so she wanted to look special for her her hubby, aww!

After leaving the Canyon, we rode up to the Hot Springs.  It was the perfect place to relax and unwind.  At first, I found the water a little too hot (is that even possible?!) but after following a few simple steps, my body got used to it.  I think the hottest that we could physically sit in was 38C and 90C at the top of the spring - crazy!  What a great relaxing treat.

31 August

Robat and I had planned to take the bikes out again to explore the other side of Pai, but the weather had other ideas.  So what do you do when it's bucketing it down with rain in Asia?  Head for a massage of course!  Robat had a traditional Thai massage and I had an 'aromatherapy' one.  It was cat inlay the strangest one that I've ever had.  In some respects, it was more of a traditional Thai massage.  Still, she certainly used her elbows to get the knots out of my back!

In the afternoon, we managed to duck out for a ride for a few hours.  There is something quite liberating about jumping on a bike and riding into the hills, having no idea where you will end up.  As this was our last day in Pai, it seemed the perfect way to end it.  Tomorrow, it's back to Chiang Mai then off Chiang Rai.

Cookery class- Thai style!

27 August

Upon arrival into Chiang Mai, we had to bid farewell to our French friend, as we'd already reserved rooms in our hostel.  After some negotiation, we managed to persuade a 'taxi' driver to take us for 75baht each.  Even then, I knew we'd been conned!  The taxi's up North are certainly different to the ones they had in Bangkok.  These were almost red pick-up trucks but according to other travellers and the encyclopaedia that is Lonely Planet, these were the cheapest method of transport.  My hostel for starters was down a residential road and felt like miles away from anywhere!  The owner, Kai, was very friendly and pleasant.  It helped that his English was pretty good too.  The front of the hostel had an almost bohemian vibe to it along with the Thai tradition of removing your shoes before entering.  I was staying in the mixed dorm - German guy (Robert) and a British girl.  The rooms were fairly basic but clean at least.  What I hadn't realised was that they only had shared bathrooms on-site.  This certainly was a first for the trip and hopefully my last.  I'd shared with other people in my dorm and that was fine, but a whole hostel.  I even had to get changed in the shower.  I felt like I was at the public swimming baths!!  Needless to say, I wasn't a fan!

That evening, I headed down into town with Robert and a Norwegian dude, who had been living in China.  We had dinner in a Thai restaurant and although it was nice, it did make me realise that I really don't like rice noodles.  I find them gooey and slimy.  Yuk!  We headed back for about 9.30pm and I was in bed for 10pm.

28 August

What I also forgot to mention was that I'd booked a cooking class for today.  Chiang Mai Thai Cookery  School is the oldest school in CM.  Their prices certainly weren't cheap (1400 baht £28) but just going off the reviews off Trip Advisor alone, it should be money worth spent...and it was!

The driver picked me up at 9.30am sharp and after a few other collections, we arrived at their Head Office in the centre of the town.  Even from the get-go, I knew it was going to be a good day.  I was greeted with a warm smile, short introduction and a paperback cookery book so that we not only knew what we were making (that's always a benefit) but that we could make them at home.  It was only a small group- an American and Pilipino couple (Danny and Dellyn), a British/Mexican couple (Anna and Antonio) and a Canadian lady called Alicia.  The group was the perfect size and we all clicked.  Our first stop was the local market to pick up our ingredients.  At first I thought it would be a quick 15 min wander round with no guidance, but to my surprise, it was an escorted 45 min tour providing insight into traditional Thai ingredients and even some taste testing!  From the moment we arrived at the school it was down to work.  They had a beautiful set up of 20 workbenches, an area to eat and a classroom.  They also had an orchard out the back.  We made 6 dishes: stirfry, sticky rice, banana cake, red curry, papaya salad and chicken in coconut milk soup.  Yummy!  All in all the day lasted about 8 hours, so by the end, none of us wanted to even think about food!  

In the evening, I met Danny and Dellyn for drinks before attempting to get a taxi back.  What I forget here is that they don't like single travellers, so much so that they penalise them, I.e charge you double the fair.  This isn't just in this part of Thailand but in most of Asia and I'm finding it a little tiresome. 

A Birthday weekend which I will never forget!

24 August

As Raj was working all day then meeting a friend from home in the evening, I had the day to myself.  After pottering about in the morning, I headed to the park and then visited Jim Thompson's house, -an American expat who famously made Thai silk popular in the states.  It was fascinating to see the blend of Thai and Western traditions which he managed to incorporate in the design of his house.  Although I would've loved to have bought  some of his silk, my budget just simply wouldn't allow it!

25 August

Today is my birthday!! Considering, I was away from home and in a foreign country, I had a pretty spectacular day.   In the morning, Raj and I went to MBK which is a huge shopping centre basically for tourists.  At mums request, she wanted me to go in search of Xmas presents (yes, this early).  I think I spent about £45 for most of the family.  Result!  We then went for a spot of lunch followed by go-karting.  Having not been since Callum's 9th birthday, I was a tad rusty but after 2 rounds, I claimed a decent time.  In the evening, Raj took me for dinner to a skybar, overlooking the Bangkok skyline.  As I was still on antibiotics, it was a mocktail for me but considering this was the first time I'd properly eaten in over a week, I did well.  The original plan was to get back for the Grand Prix but unfortunately I'm an idiot and misread the start time of the race, so we caught the last 3 laps, but the stream was also pretty weak, so that made me feel a bit better.  Instead, we lay on the sofa and watched the season finale of BE.

26 August

With Raj back at work, it was time to get myself organised and move onto my next destination.  I somehow managed to navigate my way to the train station and buy my ticket, which left me just enough time to pop to the post office and pack up my belongings.  

I arrived at the train station 40 mins before departure, which was just enough time to grab a bite to eat.  I waited patiently on the platform asking different conductors which carriage was mine. Back and forth I went, which with a heavy rucksack quickly became tedious. As I was waiting, a French man started talking to me.  At first, I mistook him for a hippy as he looked like he hasn't shaved for weeks, but in fact he'd just left his razor at home.  As I boarded the train, I started chatting to the guy in the bunk above me.  He was from Stockport, just about to start his first year at Uni. The poor lad was very sweaty as he hadnt washed for 3 days, due to travelling up from the islands (why'd you think I'm flying).  We hung out altogether for most of the evening.  It was fascinating to watch the cabin staff make up the beds from normal seats.  They're pretty comfy beds too!  Later on in the evening, we headed for the restaurant cart which then became the boogie carriage with disco lights and everything - only in Asia!

My last few days and final thoughts on Cambodia

22 August

I took the bus from Battambang back to Siem Reap.  The hotel (no hostels in Battambang) kindly organised my ticket and a tuktuk to take me to the bus station.  As with anything in Asia, it simply wasn't that easy.  The tuk tuk driver for starters didn't have a clue where the bus terminal was.  We drove around for a good 20mins, stopping to ask members of the public.  Eventually, he took me to a hotel as this is where he believed I wanted to go.  By this point, I was ready to scream!  Instead of arguing as I was conscious that I had 30 mins to catch my bus, I ran over to the hotel reception and asked for assistance.  Luckily, the guy spoke great English and seeing how distressed I had become, offered to take me.  Result!  Unfortunately for him, I only had enough money on me for a bottle of water and some nuts so I couldn't tip him.  I felt terrible.  Upon arrival at the bus station, I became instantly aware that I was the only westerner around.  Wherever I turned, people were looking at me.  It's the first time I've really felt intimated in Asia.  The bus was a normal public bus and unsurprisingly I was the only western person onboard. One of the ladies noticed I'd dropped some money out of my pocket.  At first I thought "how kind of  her to tell me".  It wasnt until later on that  I realised she'd taken 2000 local.  It only acquaints to 50 cents but thats beside the point.

I eventually got to PP and negotiated a tuk tuk driver to take me to my hostel.  I stayed in the same dorm as last time but it wasnt the same without my original group of girls.

23 August

Today was my last day in Cambodia.  It therefore seemed suitably fitting that I spend it with Sam.  We met for lunch and then he took me to the Russian Market where I picked up a hoody to replace my now retired white jacket.  I also picked up a pair of Converse for $10.  Bargain!  After taking a tour of the city, it was time to get back on the bike and head for the airport.  The building was surprisingly modern and quite small, which made it nice and easy to navigate.  The flight to Bangkok was pleasant and arrived on time.  After meeting Raj shortly after 8pm, we headed out to watch the Ashes, where else but in the pub!

Final thoughts on Cambodia:

- People: The people are friendly but I really struggled with the language barrier.  This trip is the first I've been on where I haven't had a basic understanding of the native language and a concept I've found difficult to swallow. 

- Food: Although Khmer food is available, I can't help but think that western food monopolises the main tourist resorts.  Traditional food is delicious and much cheaper, so I really hope western cuisine doesn't take over.

Time to board the plane and discover Thailand!

Catch ya'll later!

K

Adventures in Angkor Wat and Angkor What

16 August

As it's my first day in Siem Reap, I decided against breaking tradition and have a day of finding my bearings.  For the most part, Siem Reap is a typical tourist town, catering for predominately Westerners.  This being said, it still maintains some Cambodian traditions.  

After a spot of breakfast, I jumped into a tuk tuk and headed up to the Angkor Museum.  The museum was interesting (in parts), easy to navigate and very modern.  This being said, I didn't think it was worth the $12 entrance fee.

In the evening, we decided to go out as a dorm, which was really enjoyable as it allowed us to get to know one and other.  We went for dinner at a Cambodian restaurant, followed by drinks at Angkor What bar.  I even managed to meet up with the Swiss boys who I met Phnom Penn.  The evening was enjoyable and the drinks continued to flow until the early hours of the morning.  Unfortunately, this is where the party stopped...

17 August

The next morning I was up and awake nice and early, ready for my trip to the temples.  I won't bore you all with the details but my day was far from pleasant.  Saying this, I wouldn't have missed it for the world.  Angkor Wat is certainly a lot bigger than I thought it would be.  It's really quite a breathtaking experience.  The other temples weren't half as good, although Ta Promph, which became famous for being the set of Lara Croft's Tomb Raider came a pretty close second!  As my Auntie Sheana once said: "seen one temple, seen 'em all"  Wise words! 

19 -21 August

Today was the first time that I actually felt more like myself, so I took myself off to Battambang.  This small Cambodian city is not an obvious choice for most travellers but according to locals, tourism is on the increase.  Certainly from what I saw of it, they have a long way to go, if they want to make it a popular tourist destination.  It was described to me as a town full of French colonial buildings. Hmm... Not quite sure I entirely agree with this statement as I saw very few buildings from this era.  The highlight of my visit here was definitely the Bamboo Train.  The train is quite simply 8 or 9 pieces of Bamboo strapped together with a metal pole at the end.  The train is run off metal runners and powered by a small engine, similar to one you'd use on a dingee or small boat.  The train took me to one stop before returning back to the station.  What I particularly found fascinating was the way the drivers disembed the train to let another pass due to the fact it was run on a single track.  The drivers could disemble and reassemble the trains in a matter of minutes.  Fascinating!