Whakahoro and completing the famous Tongeriro Crossing

6-9 May

We spent a couple of nights in the Blue Duck Lodge, a working farm and reserve in Whakahoro.  There were plenty of activities available including hunting, clay pigeon shooting and horse trekking.  Hannah, Callum and I opted to go for the free version - walking.  We wandered up to the waterfall which took a couple of hours then headed back.  In the evening, we toasted marshmallows by the campfire whilst the owners of the lodge went out looking for Niko, Seb (Banberg or bumbag as I nicknamed him) and Michael who had not returned.  Thankfully they returned safely but learnt an important lesson that day; if you see a sign that says "wrong way", it's because you've gone...the wrong way!

The next morning we left at 6.30am for the Tongariro National Park.  At first, we weren't sure whether we'd be able to do the walk due to the weather, but, thankfully we did.  The guide made sure we were kitted out for all weathers and terrain.  Thankfully we didn't need it.  The walk was meant to take 7 hours and we had exactly 7 hours to do it in.  It took us over amazing volcanic plateau with steaming craters.  There were 12 of us that took part but only 11 completed as sadly Michael had to turn back at the south crater.  Before half way, we scrambled up 45 mins of steep stairs otherwise known as devil's staircase up to the Red Crater.  Climbing down the other side felt like we were snowboarding but on ash.  Extremely surreal.  After a brief stop for lunch at the Emerald and blue lakes we began out decent. Having completed what we thought was most of the walk, we arrived at the shelter.  Unfortunately there was still 10km to go!  I don't remember much of that 10km but I do remember the last trek through the rainforest felt like it was never going to end.

In the evening, we all felt sore so headed for the hot tub and a lovely warm meal!

Next stop: it's off to Wellington before hitting the last bit of the South Island.

*Thanks to Callum Gordon for the photos from the Tongeriro Crossing

Lake Aniwhenua and skydiving in Taupo

5-6 May

After saying my goodbyes, it was time to leave Rotorua and head south towards Taupo.  A change of bus meant a new group of people.  As we drove around the city picking people up, I heard the sound of a familiar voice; Marielle and Mike!  I was so pleased to see them and excited at the thought of spending the rest of my trip laughing and giggling with Marielle.  She has this infectious personality and one which I adore being around.

On the way down to Aniwhenua, we stopped off at Rainbow Mountain where we picked up our Maori guide, Uncle Jonny who took the group to explore some ancient Cave art and small very run down Maori town.  That evening we devoured a Hangi (traditional meal cooked in the ground) before preparing the leftovers for the local children at Murapara School.  Most of the children in this school won't eat lunch that day so it was a heartwarming feeling knowing that I had fed a child for the day.  Watching the kids present a Haka to us, is something I will never forget. 

The next morning, the weather cleared up which meant the skydive was ON!  We drove around Lake Taupo to what is known as the most remote part of the north island before stopping off for a quick peek at Huka Falls.  Before I knew it, we were in the minibus on our away to the skydive centre.  I will never forget the look of pure fear on poor Scott's (UK) face or excitement on Yohann's (France) for that matter!  We were all shown the safety video and after a slight weather delay, the guys were putting me, Lilly (Germany) and Marielle (holland) in our gear and heading towards the plane.  I'm not going to lie, I was petrified.  Lilly and Marielle both seemed to have chatty instructors which would've put me a little more at ease.  Mine on the other hand only spoke to give basic instructions other than to tell me "why should you be worries, you don't have to do anything!"  Just what I wanted to hear...

I had opted for the 12,000ft which was the cheaper option as it was lower.  Honestly, other than an extra 15 secs of freefall, there is no real difference.  The plane ride up seemed to take forever but even once we'd reached altitude, I still didn't feel ready.  I watched Lilly jump then Marielle and suddenly it was my go....  We hung over the edge, my eyes were tightly shut and suddenly I was falling through the clouds.  It was only when we slowed down that I opened my eyes and what a sight to open them too.  Wow!  The view was magnificent.  Once the parashute had been activated, we were jolted and suddenly it all became calm.  The instructor loosened my harness, lifted up my mask and we glided home.  Amazing.  The turns were slightly painful on my thighs so I can't imagine what it was like for the guys and then we were back on the ground.  It was all over.  What a feeling...

Sadly I have no video or photos of my skydive purely because it doubled the cost.  But here are my pre-flight photos (Big thanks to Mike for taking them):

Next stop: Blue Duck Lodge in Whakahoro and Tongeriro National Park

The sights and smells of Rotorua

3 - 5 May

You can't visit Rotorua without going to the geothermal hot pools.  There are number of different ones to choose from but we went with Hells Gate.  Now for those of you who don't know, Rotorua is famous for being a bit...smelly.  It's often described as smelling like rotten eggs.  Unfortunately for Sven (Belgium) he didn't know this, so received a bit of a shock as he got off the bus!  5 of the bus (me, Terry, Hannah, Callum and Sven) decided to hop off and explore the pools.  It looked like something that belonged in Mars.  Bubbling mud everywhere, steam rising from the ground and a rocky grey clay-like ground before walking through a stretch of forest.  Not something you expect to see. After the walk, we headed to the baths beginning with the mud pools and ending with the hot pool.  For once, I felt relaxed.  

In the afternoon, it was time to jump off the bus in Rotorua to stay with some family friends of my Gran's (Yetsenga family who are the daughter/son in law of Gail & John Ross otherwise known as Kirsten and Bart).  After a little hiccup with finding each other, eventually Anna (Kirsten sister) and I found each other.  After lunch we all took a walk in Redwoods before coming back home to make homemade pizza.  It's amazing what a cosy home and creature comforts can do!

The next morning we voted to go on a walk around Lake Terrawera where I taught Lewis a little about photography.  We stopped off to look at the Green and Blue lakes before pulling in at the hot water baths in Wai-o-Tapu and the relaxing thermal pools in Waikite.  Tom even joined Anna and myself for a dip in the hottest one!  Not sure I would've been so brave at his age but kudos to him. In the evening, Tom and I got to enjoy a sleepover in his room as a treat before he started back at school the next day.

On the morning of my departure, Anna kindly took me on a short photo drive-by of the Government Gardens and a local Marai followed by coffee in a famous kiwi store.  What can I say other than thank you and I'm so grateful I got to spend time with such a lovely warm and kind family.  It's was unfortunate that I didn't get to meet Kirsten but I'm hopeful that we'll all meet again someday, perhaps in Glasgow next time.

Next stop: Lake Aniwhenua

Spotting glow worms in Waitomo and learning about the Maori culture in Mourea

2 - 3 May

New Zealand is famous for many things and naturally glowing worms are one of them.  The network of caves under the town of Waitomo was created by water running through the soft limestone.  We had the option of Black Water Rafting (Tumu Tubing) or Spellbound which was described as 'cruisy and suitable for grandparents'.  In fact, this was the one and did and I thoroughly enjoyed it particularly as I was joined by Hannah (UK) and Frank (Ireland).  We had the chance to wander around the dry caves looking at the stalactites and stalagmites before taking a boat around the wet caves to look at the glowing worms.  They look like fairy lights until you get up close and see the webbing dangle down.  What makes them light up is vibration and once your eyes get used to the dark, you begin to see more and more and....more!  Spectacular.

From here we headed across the Bay of Plenty to Mourea, the home of the Ngati Pikiao people who are the sub tribe of the prominent NZ Iwi of Te Arawa.  We were greeted by one of the members of the tribe who performed a powhiri (traditional welcome) including standing in a line and tapping each other using your nose on the other person's nose.  You certainly could call it a nice ice breaker, before we dropped our bags off at the Whareniu (Maori Greeting House) which is where visitors sleep when attending a funeral, meeting or family occasions.  No food or drink is to be consumed in the house as a mark of respect to their ancestors who's pictures are on the facing wall.  After dinner, we enjoyed learning about the local culture through a show before the guys took part in a Haka and the ladies used a pue (Pom Pom) to perform a dance. The loser had to do the washing up from dinner.  Thankfully we won!  I really enjoyed being a part of this Maori family for one night and learning about their fascinating culture.

Update: I'll post up the video of us dancing when I can!

Next stop: Rotorua

Auckland to Raglan

30 April - 1 May

Auckland marked the end of most people's trip which ultimately resulted in a night out.  It also gave me the chance to have a catch up with Matt from home.  We worked out that it had been almost 6 years since we'd seen each other let alone hang out.  It was great to see him and what's more, we carried on where we'd left off all those years ago.  The following day was spent hungover.  A day that if I'd been at home, would've been spent in my duvet watching trashy tv or rom coms.  Sadly not possible when you're travelling and living in hostels.  

It was now time for a new bus.  A new bunch of people to get to know.  We started with the 'get to know you' game where our driver (Lefty) asked us all a bunch of questions in a bid to break the ice.  Thankfully we had a pretty good group.  Everyone got on so I knew I was in for an enjoyable couple of days.  Our drive down took us through Hamilton, NZ's fourth largest city but for me it will always be remembered for the cyber talking toilets.  Perhaps best to leave it just there...

From there we headed over the Coromandel Ranges and down into the Waikoto.  Apparently the area is knows to be the most productive dairy farming land in the world.  The town of Raglan isn't particularly large nor that exciting but if you haven't yet been to Australia and discovered surfing or if you have and love it then you'd probably enjoy spending a few days here.  The left hand surf break close to the lodge I stayed in is remoured to be one of the best in the world and features in the film 'The Endless Summer'. 

Next stop: Mourea via Waitomo

Seal spotting in Kaikoura and crossing the Cook Strait to the North Island

27 - 29 April

Christchurch is one of those places that always gets travellers talking.  Should I go?  Will it be too upsetting?  Is there anything there anymore?  Regrettably I never got the chance to find out due to Stray's timetables and if I'd known this before, I would factored in a few days to stay here.  So my judgement can only go off what I've been told and the pictures I've seen via other travellers.  The city itself is almost derelict and from the sounds of things, it's a long way off from being fully restored.  Having said this, I find Kiwi's get up and go attitude quite inspiring.  Even when their whole world falls apart around them, their first thought was "how do we get back to normal".  Yet, what is normal?  Normal for them is living in 1 room in a 4 bedroomed house or recreating your shop in a makeshift storage container.  This is far beyond my idea of normal...

Once we'd left the airport, it was quickly time to get back in the road and head for Kaikoura, a town famous for its crayfish (in Maori 'Kaikoura' means a 'meal of crayfish').  The town itself is fairly small with numerous seafood takeaways or restaurants.  It was here that I finally got to meet up with Rachel and her friend Diane.  After a rough few days of struggling to get to know people on my bus, it made a nice change to see a familiar face.  Sadly, I didn't get to see Charl or Amelia but I know they're both having an awesome time.  That afternoon, we wandered along the coastline in the hope we'd spot some seals.  We did see one but his head was underwater the entire time we were there.  Thankfully, I saw plenty the next morning en-route to Picton.  I'll never forget watching hundreds of seals jumping through the water almost like dolphins whilst others trekked back down stream scrambling over rocks.

In the afternoon, we crossed the Cook Strait on the Bluebridge Ferry passing through Queen Charlotte sound.  It still amazes me how it takes 3.4-4 hours simply to pass from one island to the other.  We arrived at night resulting in most of us crashing out in bed by 9pm.  The next morning, we took the bus up to Auckland.  11 hours of solid driving was neither comfortable nor fun.

Next stop: Auckland

Mount Cook & Rangitata

25 - 26 April

After a bright and early start, it was time to make our way to my first stop with Stray; Mount Cook.  My first driver was Chase, a bubbly outgoing character who made the effort to welcome me onto her bus. Every morning, Chase would play the same song "Don't forget your roots".  To her it was offering a message to her passengers reminding them that no matter where they are in the world, they shouldn't forget where they came from nor their family.

We headed over the Lindis Pass through to the Mackenzie country past the west coast of Lake Pukaki; a stunning turquoise lake.  Why is it that colour?  Apparently it's due to the finely ground rock from the glaciers fed from the Southern Alpes.  It's obvious why this place is famous for its tussock covered hills and breathtaking scenery.  Unfortunately for us, the weather took a turn for the worse which meant it was too wet and wild to head out for a hike around Aoraki (Mount Cook), do we had the option of a free sauna or a visit to the Sir Edmund Hillary museum.  At $20 I think it's pretty overpriced so I opted for the former. 

The next morning was cold but clear allowing us to see New Zealand's highest mountain which as named after Captain James Cook who first to set foot on NZ soil on his epic voyage in 1768.  We head towards Rangitata via scenic Lake Tekapo and Church of The Good Shepherd, more commonly known as the church with a view!  And boy did it have a view!

That afternoon, we stopped for lunch in the small town of Geraldine, famous for housing the largest jumper in the world!  As per our itinerary, we were meant to head for Rangitata but due to the size of our bus, they didn't have enough room for us.  Thankfully this proved to be a god send as were treated to a night of luxury in nearby Methven - double beds, ensuites, tv/DVD players in our room and towels. A rare treat for a backpacker!

Next stop: Wellington via Kaikoura

New adventures in New Zealand commencing in Queenstown

21 - 24 April

To say my flight over to NZ was stressful would be an understatement.  From the panic of "I can't find my passport" to almost missing my connecting flight due to delays and poor signage in Brisbane's Domestic Terminal.  Still, I made it.  The decent into Queenstown was stunning, flying over mountains with nothing but green and blue for as far as the eye could see.

I have been called a flashpacker on a few occasions and to some degree I am.  I have a hairdryer, straighteners, IPAD and a decent camera.  All of which I consider essential.  Yet it's when I rock up to a new place and pay $20 for a shuttle bus as opposed to $10 for a public bus that my flashpacker ways really come out.  Is the stress free feeling of knowing I'm going from the airport to the hostel door worth $10?  What do you think...

Back to Queenstown.  The city itself is a beautiful as I'd been told it was but due to the time of year, it was cold.  To someone who's been living in 28C + heat for the last 19 months, it was freezing!!  S my first few days were spent shopping for the necessary winter attire for the forthcoming weeks including a coat,hat, gloves and thermals!  Money which I had not budgeted for.  Still, it's important to keep warm.  

With the other half of my time, I made the most of the scenery and free activities by walking up Queenstown Hill and around the lake.  Another fellow traveller who I met in Vietnam also recommended the 'gravity carts' or Luge as they're more commonly known as.  You have to take up the gondola to the top of a hill (which provides magnificent views in a clear day) then head for the track.  Luge racing is basically go carting with no engine as the cart uses the motion of gravity to make you move which is assisted by a break pad underneath.  This activity was so much fun and well worth doing!  For dinner one evening, I had a famous Fergburger.  I must admit it was pretty good and the pies from the Fergbaker were just as delicious.  This being said, an hour wait is still a little bit crazy!

On 24th, I headed out at 7am to Milford Sound.  Somewhere which was recommended to me by Ryan (backpacker in Cambodia).  The day didn't start off well as I'd been woken up in the middle of the night by a fire alarm followed by some inconsiderate room-mates.  All this or at least most of it was forgotten once the sun had come up and we made our way down south through Fiordland National Park.  We stopped at several places en-route including Lake Wakortipu, Mirror Lake ('cause the water s so clear you could see the reflection of the mountains in the water) and Mount Earnshaw.  I was lucky enough to have been driven by someone who worked on Lord of the Rings and is currently working on the Hobbit.  He kindly pointed out some of the locations which had been used in one or both films.  Once we'd arrived into the ferry port, we boaded a boat which took us around MS.  The weather was fairly good but cold providing a fairly clear view of the famous Mitre Peak rising about MS.  As we motored around we managed out spot some seals chilling on the rocks and stopped under a giant waterfall to give the boat a bit of a shower!

Tomorrow is day 1 of my Stray adventure!

Next stop: Mount Cook & Rangitata 

Final thoughts on Australia

Australia has been home for the last 7 months and as with every country, it's had places that I've loved and some that I've not.  For me, it started in the best way possible in Perth where I spent time with some incredibly important people.  I got to know 2 amazing children, a beautiful dog (Max), spend time with family and make a friend for life in Georgia.  I'll never forget my first (and possibly only) warm Christmas.  Even though I knew it was going to be strange, I didnt quite realise how strange.  Still, you have to experience Christmas away from home at least once in your lifetime.

New Years Eve was special.  Fireworks like I've never seen before.  The Aussies sure do know how to put on a good show.  Simply awesome!  Sydney as a city was great and one in which I could easily live in.

Tasmania is probably the place that surprised me the most.  I hadn't planned to go there until I met Jimmy and the crew but I'm glad I did.  Launceston reminded me of home and for 6 weeks, it was home.  I had so many good nights at Irish and towards the end, I really felt a part of the team.  Ceri and I went on a few roadtrips which were a lot of fun; Freycinet and Cradle Mountain are probably 2 of my favorite places and I'm thankful that I saw them with him. 

Melbourne is easily my favourite city for many reasons; street art, funky cafés, delicious food, friendly folk and getting lost down Laneways.  It's easy to see why so many backpackers like to settle here.  The Neighbours tour was such a laugh and we even got to watch Susan Kennedy to do some filming.  Yet for me, the highlight had to be doing the Great Ocean Road with my papa.  He may not have enjoyed the camping element but I think he enjoyed seeing the 12 Apostles.

Ayres Rock was unforgettable and easily one of the highlights of my whole trip.  The rock is much bigger than I thought and changes colour almost every 10 secs.  Mindblowing.  Kings Canyon was impressive but for me, not as impressive as Uluru.

Byron Bay was a disappointment.  It was a city full of wannabe backpacker hippies.  Surfers Paradise certainly wasn't paradise for me.  Tacky, overpriced and very overrated.  Noosa is a great town and understandably known as the locals version of Byron.  Whitehaven beach is easily the most spectacular beach in the world.  Those blue waters overlapping the sand and cool sand at that will ever be engrained in my memory.  I'm pleased that I got the chance to snorkel in the Great Barrier Reef but due to the cyclone, it wasn't as clear as it could've been. Still, at least I found Nemo and swam with a turtle in the wild...

So that's my round-up of 7 incredible months in Australia.  What an incredible country and one I will never look at in the same light again.  

Until the next time Strayyya, thanks for having me!

Next stop: Queenstown, New Zealand